Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Tonkatsu Ginza Bairin @ 255 Beachwalk, Honolulu





In Honolulu, there's an never ending opportunity to have Japanese comfort food; and what's always on my mind...Tonkatsu.  This breaded and fried pork cutlet is most definitely my favorite food in the world; it probably stems from my summers in Japan and seeing my grandparents will always be the fondest of memories.

My Grandmother was a excellent chef and a wizard in the kitchen, it's where I spent many a hot, muggy day with her in that ramshackle of a toolshed making and baking the most wonderful dishes; from Curry Stew and Yakisoba to French Pastries and Meat Pies, I was first introduced to
another world of flavors and thus began my passion
for knowledge and food. It was the inception of my palate.




Which is probably why I am a food blogger, I'm just ecstatic over the prospect of a meal. Because it's more than just nourishment, greater than it's entertainment value; to me, it's a celebration of interaction and an expression of love.  And for those who know and understand me inherently get it's importance.  So, I take from her a long family tradition; a service of taking care of family that I hope to pass onto my family and loved ones.  I feel sympathy for those who did not get to experience this love growing up, for it is the hearth that warms the soul.

My Grandma never used cutlets, instead she bought a whole Pork loin for her Katsu, marinated in her own secret recipe, it would come out like nuggets, extra crispy and delicious. I would make my own secret Tonkatsu sauce (which was just Tonkatsu, Ketchup and Mayo)  and we would sit down and have a real, multi-generational family meal, my most cherished memories of my childhood.

Rest in peace, Grandma.  We didn't always see eye to eye, but I love you nonetheless.  You will always be a part of me.



Anyways, back to the post: Tonkatsu Ginza Bairin is Hawaii's satellite post of the original, hailed from Tokyo's  most expensive district, Ginza.  Since 1927, it is the first and oldest Tonkastu restaurant in Japan, delivering high quality deep fried breaded pork cutlets to the Tonkatsu deprived.




It was to be the highlight of the Hawaii trip for me, for obvious reasons.  Walking inside, it was like stepping into a cute cafe in the heart of Tokyo and I felt immediately at ease.  The menu is extensive, with multiple variations of fried delights, it took quite some time for me to comb through the lists, but ultimately, I already knew what I wanted to get, (I always get the same thing so why do I go through the arduous process?) I guess I'm trying to find the one dish that catches my eye, casting doubt on my preselected choice.




































For an appetizer, we started with a spicy cucumber in a vinaigrette; it's a refreshing way to open the palette and get the appetite revved up for the heavy dish to about to ensue....

At most Tonkatsu restaurants, they serve a Mortar and Pestle filled with Sesame Seeds, to be ground and then covered with Tonkatsu Sauce for dipping.  Participating in the ceremonial aspect of the meal makes it all the more enjoyable!








And the main event; Kurobuta (Berkshire Pork) Pork Loin Tonkatsu with Cabbage, Tonjiru, (Pork Miso Soup) Rice and Pickles.  It's a limited item, only 25 made a day and at a whopping $36, it's seems like the King of pork cutlets!

There's nothing more disappointing than an over fried piece of meat, I'm not gone mince words here; the meat itself had very little fat, (unlike real Berkshire Pork which is very succulent and fatty)
and the outside tasted somewhat stale (as if they hadn't changed their frying oil in quite some time).


It certainly wasn't the high standards I was expecting from a restaurant originating from Tokyo, albeit it looked beautiful.

As a side, we ordered some Japanese Curry, it ended up being a great accompaniment to mask the Tonkatsu (a real shame at $6 a piece).  I enjoyed the Curry in it's departure from the standard, normally thick, this had a sauce like consistency and a robust, fruity undercurrent that although unusual, proved to be a highlight.


In any case, I won't be coming here again, at least not for that overpriced under delivered dish.  If anything, I'll go for the Katsu Don or Katsu Sandwich; at least I won't have high expectations when ordering those medium quality menu items.


Tonkatsu Ginza Bairin on Urbanspoon
Ratings (Out of Five Stars)
Food:            2
Ambience:    2.5
Service:        3







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